I'm a sport bike rider (RC-51) and am impressed with the motorcycle helmets on the market now. They are functional, safer than ever, artistic and make a statement about who's wearing them. But since buying one can be a bit difficult - what with riding around town seeing which dealer has which brands and styles - I've posted links to a couple of helmet retailers in order to make helmet shopping a little bit easier. Both the Cycle Gear Helmet Page and Motorcycle Superstore's Helmet Page will have any helmet or related item you need. They both carry a complete inventory, are reputable and knowlegeable. They both also have seven-day return helmet return policies in case it doesn't fit right.
I've also posted links to articles and sites about motorcycle helmets that may be of interest. Some of the articles are very helpful and informative. You should seriously check out the Motorcylistonline article. You'll be surprised at what you learn. If you're going to spend the big bucks on a helmet, you may as well know enough to have some confidence in it.
Feel free to post your opinions or reviews on whatever brand you wear or have experience with. Your knowledge and experience will be useful to somebody else. The purpose of this blog is to inform, and the more info on it the better.
Monday, October 5, 2009
Full Face Helmets - Why I Wear Them
Below you will see a diagram of a full face helmet showing what percentage of all impacts each area gets. The front of the helmet from the forehead down gets 63.6% of all hits. In other words, 2 out of 3 helmet strikes are to the front. Furthermore, 44.5% of impacts are on the face shield or chin bar.
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These number happen to match my experience quite closely. In 37 years of motorcyle riding, I've had three get-offs. In one of them my forehead hit fist, once my chin bar hit first and in the third, the back of my head hit first. Even in the third instance I left the bike going forward (face first). By the time I landed, however, I was about 2/3's of the way through a front loop. I did a nice, two-point landing on the back of my head and upper-left shoulder blade. My head was fine but but my collar bone needed to be wired back together.
With two of my three helmet strikes being to the front, I seem to be a fairly average crasher. Which means if I crash again, I'll have an almost 50/50 chance of landing on my face. And so, by the way, will you.
Friday, October 2, 2009
Cleaning Your Face Shield
When to Clean Your Face Shield
Your visor is by far the part of your helmet you’ll clean the most often. Simply because it’s what you see through. You clean it after (or while) riding in any condition which puts it contact with any substance or object. Rain, dust, mud and bugs are the most likely problems. Even if you never encounter any of these, usage and handling will cause the shield to become difficult to see through if it’s not cleaned occasionally.
Any time visibility becomes compromised, the shield needs to be cleaned. Even if it’s just a little smear over to the side, you should clean it as soon as reasonably possible. If not for the safety aspect of having a blurred spot in your vision, then because the longer that spot in there, the harder it will be to get off. The harder it is to get off, the more likely it is that the face shield will be left will very small scratches which will cause it to become cloudy. This is an irritating and unsafe condition which you definitely need to avoid.
If you’ve cleaned the shield and vision through it still isn’t good, then it’s probably scratched and you should seriously think about replacing it. Riding with impaired vision is really a bad plan.
How to Clean it
Because manufacturers vary in the materials they use to produce their face shield, the first thing you should do is follow their instructions or recommendations. If you don’t have that information, the safest thing to use will be water and a very soft cloth. If there is a heavy accumulation of dirt or bugs, you might try a soft brush (like a very soft tooth brush) or cotton swab. Unless specifically called for by the manufacturer, you should not use any solvent-based cleaners on your shield as they can be absorbed into the material which may reduce vision, cause discoloration and weaken the shield.
If you’re looking for something a bit more than just water, there are specialty products available. In my opinion, their biggest advantage is that many of them have anti-fogging benefits also.
Tear-Offs
A tear-off is simply a thin film of plastic used to cover and protect you face shield. They are made to be easily torn off, one at a time, when they become dirty. A pack of 10 tear offs will probably cost under $15. You shouldn’t put more than 3 or 4 on at a time, however, because they will tend to distort your vision.
If you ride in conditions which require frequent cleaning during a ride, you may want to consider using tear-offs. That way instead of pulling over to clean your face shield, you simply pull of the outer layer and, like magic; you have a nice clean shield you can see through again.
Your visor is by far the part of your helmet you’ll clean the most often. Simply because it’s what you see through. You clean it after (or while) riding in any condition which puts it contact with any substance or object. Rain, dust, mud and bugs are the most likely problems. Even if you never encounter any of these, usage and handling will cause the shield to become difficult to see through if it’s not cleaned occasionally.
Any time visibility becomes compromised, the shield needs to be cleaned. Even if it’s just a little smear over to the side, you should clean it as soon as reasonably possible. If not for the safety aspect of having a blurred spot in your vision, then because the longer that spot in there, the harder it will be to get off. The harder it is to get off, the more likely it is that the face shield will be left will very small scratches which will cause it to become cloudy. This is an irritating and unsafe condition which you definitely need to avoid.
If you’ve cleaned the shield and vision through it still isn’t good, then it’s probably scratched and you should seriously think about replacing it. Riding with impaired vision is really a bad plan.
How to Clean it
Because manufacturers vary in the materials they use to produce their face shield, the first thing you should do is follow their instructions or recommendations. If you don’t have that information, the safest thing to use will be water and a very soft cloth. If there is a heavy accumulation of dirt or bugs, you might try a soft brush (like a very soft tooth brush) or cotton swab. Unless specifically called for by the manufacturer, you should not use any solvent-based cleaners on your shield as they can be absorbed into the material which may reduce vision, cause discoloration and weaken the shield.
If you’re looking for something a bit more than just water, there are specialty products available. In my opinion, their biggest advantage is that many of them have anti-fogging benefits also.
Tear-Offs
A tear-off is simply a thin film of plastic used to cover and protect you face shield. They are made to be easily torn off, one at a time, when they become dirty. A pack of 10 tear offs will probably cost under $15. You shouldn’t put more than 3 or 4 on at a time, however, because they will tend to distort your vision.
If you ride in conditions which require frequent cleaning during a ride, you may want to consider using tear-offs. That way instead of pulling over to clean your face shield, you simply pull of the outer layer and, like magic; you have a nice clean shield you can see through again.
Wednesday, September 23, 2009
Taking Care of Your Helmet Lining
Every manufacturer I’m aware of recommends replacing your helmet every five years. However, the accumulation of sweat, humidity, and dust can deteriorate the liners fabric and stitching much sooner than that. They may also cause an odor you won’t enjoy.
If your helmet lining pads aren’t removable, most manufacturers will recommend a product like Helmet Fresh. It will get rid of any bacteria or mildew that is good for neither the helmet nor you.
For helmets with removable pads, you can toss them in the washing machine (personally, I use a mild soap) and then let them air dry. If you’re in a hurry you can use a blow dryer, but only if you can turn the heat off.
If your helmet lining pads aren’t removable, most manufacturers will recommend a product like Helmet Fresh. It will get rid of any bacteria or mildew that is good for neither the helmet nor you.
For helmets with removable pads, you can toss them in the washing machine (personally, I use a mild soap) and then let them air dry. If you’re in a hurry you can use a blow dryer, but only if you can turn the heat off.
Monday, September 21, 2009
Helmet Modifications – A Definite No-No
Any good helmet is designed to meet SNELL and/or DOT standards. Modifying it will most likely increase the damage to your head in an accident. For your brain’s sake, don’t change the engineering of your helmet. Modifications include the following:
• drilling holes;
• cutting shell, liner, or strap;
• modifying the retention system, including adding a chin cup;
• removing parts, and;
• attaching accessories that are not manufactured for your specific helmet model.
Pretty much anything you can do to your helmet will compromise its integrity. You wear a helmet to protect your brain, so don’t sacrifice that protection by lessening its effectiveness.
If you don’t like your helmet the way it is, get a new one.
• drilling holes;
• cutting shell, liner, or strap;
• modifying the retention system, including adding a chin cup;
• removing parts, and;
• attaching accessories that are not manufactured for your specific helmet model.
Pretty much anything you can do to your helmet will compromise its integrity. You wear a helmet to protect your brain, so don’t sacrifice that protection by lessening its effectiveness.
If you don’t like your helmet the way it is, get a new one.
Wednesday, September 16, 2009
Cleaning Helmet Vents
Helmet Vent Cleaning
Occasionally you will find that dust or small bits of debris has lodged in your helmet vents. You can use the same compressed air cans used for cleaning your keyboard to blow the debris from the helmets vents. You should remove any lining pads you can before doing this.
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Occasionally you will find that dust or small bits of debris has lodged in your helmet vents. You can use the same compressed air cans used for cleaning your keyboard to blow the debris from the helmets vents. You should remove any lining pads you can before doing this.
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Monday, August 10, 2009
Things to Think About Before Buying a Motorcycle Helmet
These days helmets are an important investment for any rider/driver who needs head protection. Whether you're on a motorcycle, quad, snowmobile or in a car, there's much to be considered.
Obviously, safety is the main reason you need a motorcycle helmet. However, many other factors enter into the buying decision. How the helmet fits is important for both comfort and functionality. Style, color and "cool factor" are also considerations which often determine what we trust our brains to. Don't forget that it's your brain you're trying to protect.
Cost is another consideration. It can be, and often is, the determining factor in the helmet buying decision. There are snell and/or DOT rated motorcycle helmets on the market that sell from well over $500.00 to around $80.00. So if you're on a tight budget these days, don't feel like you have to break the bank on a new helmet.
Helmets are usually constructed of fiberglass, carbon fiber, kevlar or plastic shells with various densities of foam liner inside the shell. It's the combination of the characteristics of these two materials which determines how much force gets transmitted from an impact on the shell, through the liner, to your brain.
Some of us believe the stiffer the shell and liner are, the more your brain is protected. This is both true and false. If the blow to the helmet is direct and hard enough to break a less rigid shell, then may be true. However, in what I'll call a medium hard impact, that same helmet is absorbing less of the impact and your brain is taking more of it. In this case a less stiff shell/liner combination may be better for you by absorbing more impact . This is likely the case in the instance of a glancing blow. By glancing blow, I mean one that does not bring your head to a complete stop when the blow occurs. In my experience, the vast majority of non-car crashes would fall into this category.
The two most likely exceptions would be if you fell off a stopped motorcycle (snowmobile or quad) and smacked your head directly into the ground, or; if you fell off at speed and slid directly into something which could stop you instantly. Falling off while stopped would not be a hard impact and, therefore, would not require helmet designed for hard, direct impacts. In fact, a bit of give in the shell and a softer liner absorbs more of the impact leaving less for your brain to take.
In a high speed, direct impact situation you need to consider how much protection something hard wrapped around your head it going to provide. Not to mention the fact that if you drive into the side of your neighborhood Wal-Mart at 90 mph, a stiff helmet won't keep you out of a casket.
Over to the right of this page, you'll find a link to an article from motorcyclistonline.com which details results of tests on various helmets under various impact forces and directions. It's a little bit long but gives good (sometimes surprising) insight into what type of helmet might best suit your riding needs.
To sum things up, when deciding which helmet to purchase it's important to take a look at what you ride or drive and the conditions in which you operate. What type of crash do you feel is most likely for you? At what speed? When it happens, what are the chances of actually sliding directly into something that's not going to give?
Be honest when you answer these questions. Some of us like to think we are so fast that we need the stiffest protection possible. My personal opinion is that's rarely the case. Even if you are the fastest guy on the planet, how often are you going to hit something head-on at high speeds? Unless you're doing something dramatic in a congested area, it's not likely.
Just for the record, I'm not trying to convince anyone to run out and buy a softer helmet. I just want people who need head protection to think about what's actually best for them. Remember, you only get one brain. Besides, the best helmet for you will look just as cool as one that's too hard. Or too soft, for that matter. Decide wisely.
Obviously, safety is the main reason you need a motorcycle helmet. However, many other factors enter into the buying decision. How the helmet fits is important for both comfort and functionality. Style, color and "cool factor" are also considerations which often determine what we trust our brains to. Don't forget that it's your brain you're trying to protect.
Cost is another consideration. It can be, and often is, the determining factor in the helmet buying decision. There are snell and/or DOT rated motorcycle helmets on the market that sell from well over $500.00 to around $80.00. So if you're on a tight budget these days, don't feel like you have to break the bank on a new helmet.
Helmets are usually constructed of fiberglass, carbon fiber, kevlar or plastic shells with various densities of foam liner inside the shell. It's the combination of the characteristics of these two materials which determines how much force gets transmitted from an impact on the shell, through the liner, to your brain.
Some of us believe the stiffer the shell and liner are, the more your brain is protected. This is both true and false. If the blow to the helmet is direct and hard enough to break a less rigid shell, then may be true. However, in what I'll call a medium hard impact, that same helmet is absorbing less of the impact and your brain is taking more of it. In this case a less stiff shell/liner combination may be better for you by absorbing more impact . This is likely the case in the instance of a glancing blow. By glancing blow, I mean one that does not bring your head to a complete stop when the blow occurs. In my experience, the vast majority of non-car crashes would fall into this category.
The two most likely exceptions would be if you fell off a stopped motorcycle (snowmobile or quad) and smacked your head directly into the ground, or; if you fell off at speed and slid directly into something which could stop you instantly. Falling off while stopped would not be a hard impact and, therefore, would not require helmet designed for hard, direct impacts. In fact, a bit of give in the shell and a softer liner absorbs more of the impact leaving less for your brain to take.
In a high speed, direct impact situation you need to consider how much protection something hard wrapped around your head it going to provide. Not to mention the fact that if you drive into the side of your neighborhood Wal-Mart at 90 mph, a stiff helmet won't keep you out of a casket.
Over to the right of this page, you'll find a link to an article from motorcyclistonline.com which details results of tests on various helmets under various impact forces and directions. It's a little bit long but gives good (sometimes surprising) insight into what type of helmet might best suit your riding needs.
To sum things up, when deciding which helmet to purchase it's important to take a look at what you ride or drive and the conditions in which you operate. What type of crash do you feel is most likely for you? At what speed? When it happens, what are the chances of actually sliding directly into something that's not going to give?
Be honest when you answer these questions. Some of us like to think we are so fast that we need the stiffest protection possible. My personal opinion is that's rarely the case. Even if you are the fastest guy on the planet, how often are you going to hit something head-on at high speeds? Unless you're doing something dramatic in a congested area, it's not likely.
Just for the record, I'm not trying to convince anyone to run out and buy a softer helmet. I just want people who need head protection to think about what's actually best for them. Remember, you only get one brain. Besides, the best helmet for you will look just as cool as one that's too hard. Or too soft, for that matter. Decide wisely.
Sunday, August 9, 2009
Helmet Standards
There are 4 common standards to which helmets can be held. In the U.S. it's the DOT FMVSS 218. In Britain it's the BSI 6658. The European Standard is called ECE 22-05. These 3 are the government mandated minimum standards helmets are legally required to pass in those countries. A voluntary, private standard is the recently updated Snell M2010 which is used mostly in the U.S. However, changes adopted in the new M2010 take effect on Oct. 1, 2009 make it possible for manufacturers to meet both Snell and ECE requirements. Thus making those Snell certified helmets legal for street riding in Europe.
Each of these standards have different rigidity and G-force requirements. Generally, from softest to hardest you'd find DOT, then the ECE, the BSI and Snell, which requires the hardest helmets.
Most racing organizations will accept any of the above certifications. The exception is that some European organizations don’t allow DOT only certification. Mostly, it’s presumed, because the DOT allows the manufacturer to certify their own helmets. BFI, ECE and Snell each do their own testing.
Each of these standards have different rigidity and G-force requirements. Generally, from softest to hardest you'd find DOT, then the ECE, the BSI and Snell, which requires the hardest helmets.
Most racing organizations will accept any of the above certifications. The exception is that some European organizations don’t allow DOT only certification. Mostly, it’s presumed, because the DOT allows the manufacturer to certify their own helmets. BFI, ECE and Snell each do their own testing.
Saturday, August 8, 2009
Cleaning Your Helmet the Right Way
Glossy Finish. Most helmets are painted with an automotive type paint. Therefore, you should use the same type of products in cleaning or polishing your helmet as you would on your car. Use rubbing compounds to remove scratches and scuffs, but be aware that over polishing with them can cause light abrasions which can dull the helmet's finish. If you remove stickers or decals, you'll notice that adhesive residue will be left behind. To remove it, use alcohol swabs. Wipe away excess liquid immediately and wash the area with soap and water once the adhesive is gone. Be careful not to apply too much pressure when rubbing residue out. You're better off using multiple, light treatments rather than one heavy handed treatment which could scratch or scuff the finish.
Non-Glossy Finish. For flat finish (non-glossy) helmets, you're good to go using just warm water and mild soap. Use multiple treatments for dirtier areas. Again, don't use excessive pressure or rubbing compounds while cleaning the surface. Doing so could cause a glossy area which won't look all that great on a flat finish.
Non-Glossy Finish. For flat finish (non-glossy) helmets, you're good to go using just warm water and mild soap. Use multiple treatments for dirtier areas. Again, don't use excessive pressure or rubbing compounds while cleaning the surface. Doing so could cause a glossy area which won't look all that great on a flat finish.
Friday, August 7, 2009
Flip Up Helmets
I've never owned, borrowed or used a flip up helmet. These are just my thoughts on the subject after reading test reports from around the 'net. I think there is a place for flip ups in motorcycling. I don't think they are a replacement for a regular, one-piece full face though.
To me, a flip up is just an open face helmet with an add-on. Some may be better/safer than an open face, some probably aren't. You have to look at the flip up's construction, padding and method of operation to make that determination.
A weak or un-padded chin piece would be a problem for me. Partly because my last crash sent me over the front of my RC-51 to land face first on the desert floor. And yes, I know RC-51's aren't supposed to be in the desert. That left turn just didn't quite go as planned. But, with my full face helmet on, the only mark on me was a small red spot in the middle of my forehead. I don't know for certain if that would have been the case if I had been wearing a flip up.
The pivot points on flip ups are likely to be weaker than a standard one piece full face. Therefore, going from full face to flip up is probably sacrificing a certain amount of structural integrity.
However, some of the flip ups that are well designed and padded may offer more protection than a standard open face as long as the chin guard doesn't get released in a crash. I'd hate to think of how a neck could get twisted and bent while tumbling across the ground with a raised flip up. Such an unwanted release is why I'd prefer a mechanism which required both hands to engage. I think it would be highly unlikely for two releases to get bumped open during a crash.
I can't argue with the convenience of a flip up. They make it much easier to have a quick chat, smoke, drink or snack than a full face. I can certainly understand the attraction. For me to take a quick sip of water, I have to take off my gloves, undo my chin strap, take off my glasses, remove the helmet and put the glasses back on. Then reverse the process. It is a bit time consuming and troublesome. It would be much easier to just raise the chin piece, take a drink, lower the chin piece and be on my way.
At the end of the day, there are very few, if any, bad helmets on the market. Anything you wear is going to protect your brain better than your skull alone.
To me, a flip up is just an open face helmet with an add-on. Some may be better/safer than an open face, some probably aren't. You have to look at the flip up's construction, padding and method of operation to make that determination.
A weak or un-padded chin piece would be a problem for me. Partly because my last crash sent me over the front of my RC-51 to land face first on the desert floor. And yes, I know RC-51's aren't supposed to be in the desert. That left turn just didn't quite go as planned. But, with my full face helmet on, the only mark on me was a small red spot in the middle of my forehead. I don't know for certain if that would have been the case if I had been wearing a flip up.
The pivot points on flip ups are likely to be weaker than a standard one piece full face. Therefore, going from full face to flip up is probably sacrificing a certain amount of structural integrity.
However, some of the flip ups that are well designed and padded may offer more protection than a standard open face as long as the chin guard doesn't get released in a crash. I'd hate to think of how a neck could get twisted and bent while tumbling across the ground with a raised flip up. Such an unwanted release is why I'd prefer a mechanism which required both hands to engage. I think it would be highly unlikely for two releases to get bumped open during a crash.
I can't argue with the convenience of a flip up. They make it much easier to have a quick chat, smoke, drink or snack than a full face. I can certainly understand the attraction. For me to take a quick sip of water, I have to take off my gloves, undo my chin strap, take off my glasses, remove the helmet and put the glasses back on. Then reverse the process. It is a bit time consuming and troublesome. It would be much easier to just raise the chin piece, take a drink, lower the chin piece and be on my way.
At the end of the day, there are very few, if any, bad helmets on the market. Anything you wear is going to protect your brain better than your skull alone.
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